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1 bobbin for lace-making
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2 lace
I 1. [leɪs]1) U (fabric) pizzo m., merletto m., trina f.2) С (on shoe, boot, dress) laccio m., stringa f.; (on tent) cordone m.2.modificatore [curtain, dress] in pizzoII [leɪs]•- lace up* * *[leis] 1. noun1) (a string or cord for fastening shoes etc: I need a new pair of laces for my tennis shoes.) laccio, stringa2) (delicate net-like decorative fabric made with fine thread: Her dress was trimmed with lace; ( also adjective) a lace shawl.) merletto, pizzo2. verb(to fasten or be fastened with a lace which is threaded through holes: Lace (up) your boots firmly.) allacciare* * *[leɪs]1. n1) (fabric) pizzo, merletto2) (of shoe) laccio, stringa, (of corset) laccio2. adj3. vt1) (also: lace up) (shoes etc) allacciare2) (drink: with spirits) correggere, (with poison) avvelenare* * *lace /leɪs/n.1 [u] merletto, merletti; pizzo; trina, trine: lace trimming, guarnizione in pizzo; a lace collar, un colletto di trine3 gallone; spighetta: gold [silver] lace, gallone d'oro [d'argento]● lace glass, bicchiere (o vetro) con disegno a filigrana □ lace insertion, tramezzo di pizzo; entre deux (franc.) □ lace-maker, merlettaia: lace-making, arte del merletto □ lace pillow, tombolo □ ( di una calza da donna) lace-top, con il gambaletto di pizzo.(to) lace /leɪs/A v. t.1 ( spesso to lace up) allacciare; legare; stringere: to lace (up) one's shoes, allacciarsi le scarpe4 aggiungere liquore a ( caffè, latte, birra, ecc.); correggere ( una bevanda): coffee laced with brandy, caffè corretto col brandy5 (fam., anche to lace into) battere; bastonare; frustare; criticare aspramente; dare una strigliata a (q.)B v. i.● ( di donna, un tempo) to lace one's breast, mettersi il busto □ to lace a cord through st., far passare un cordoncino attraverso qc.* * *I 1. [leɪs]1) U (fabric) pizzo m., merletto m., trina f.2) С (on shoe, boot, dress) laccio m., stringa f.; (on tent) cordone m.2.modificatore [curtain, dress] in pizzoII [leɪs]•- lace up -
3 Lace
LACE, Passement, French, also Dentelle, and GuipureLace was originally a heavy texture more like embroidery and of two kinds, Lacis or "darned netting" and Cutwork. Laces, often worked in gold threads and coloured silks was also called " spiderwork." Lace is purely an English word, derived from the Anglo-Norman lacier, to lace, bind, tie or fasten, etc. The word appears to have been first used in 1519. It is a fabric of open mesh or net formed by crossing and intertwining threads. Lace was originally purely a hand craft, but today it is machine made as well. There are three main classes: - Point lace, pillow lace and machine-made lace. Point Lace - When the term " Point " is applied to a lace fabric it should mean that the lace has been made by the needle with a single line of thread, but it is now given to many machine-made laces. There are numerous laces sold as point laces and each has some feature not possessed by any other, many of these laces are known by the town where they are manufactured. Pillow Lace - These laces are made by intertwining threads on pins fixed in a cushion over a pattern fastened on to the cushion. Many pillow laces are part hand and part machine made such as Honiton, Valenciennes, Irish, etc. Machine-made Laces - There are three principal classes which can be placed (1) warp fabrics; (2) plain nets; (3) Levers' laces. Warp Laces - This is the earliest form of lace produced on a machine which was the invention of the Rev. William Lee in 1589, and was an adaption of the stocking frame. A warp lace is a series of upright threads that twist upon each other to form a fabric. There are no crossing threads. They are made in widths up to 10-in. and are the cheapest laces made. Plain Nets - John Heathcote, the inventor of the bobbin-net machine in 1809, laid the foundation of the machine-made lace trade. These are formed by a diagonal bobbin thread intertwining with the upright warp threads so that when the web is taken off the machine the mesh is honeycomb shaped. Other shapes followed, such as the square mesh. Cotton, silk, mohair and rayon are all used in making plain nets. Standard plain nets are as follows: - Brussels Net - Close mesh, specially selected fine yarns, in widths 36-in. to 80-in. The mesh varies up to 20 holes per inch. Both stiff and soft finish. Mosquito Net - Made in many qualities and closeness of mesh and from 54-in. to 108-in. Cable Net - Made up to 300-in. wide and from coarser yarns than other laces. This fabric is used as the ground fabric for curtains, etc. Bretonne Net - A very fine fabric, close mesh and finer yarns than Brussels, very soft and smooth finish. Point d'esprit - Fabrics with spots at regular distances. The yarns are not as good a quality as Brussels. Finished both soft and stiff. Paris Nets - Very stiff finish, used by the millinery trade for foundation work. Illusion Nets - A star-shaped mesh fabric, very fine yarns, used for veils and evening dress purposes. Silk Mechlins, or Tulles - A net more round than square in mesh and made from fine silk yarns. Malines is a tulle made in Belgium. Chantilly, or Silk Brussels - Similar to Brussels, but made from black dyed silk yarns. Chambray Nets - A finer all silk net than Chantilly. Levers' Lace Fabrics - These are various fancy laces and are produced on the lace machine fitted with a jacquard. Samuel Draper of Nottingham combined the jacquard with the lace machine in 1813. John Levers invented the machine. Varieties of these laces are Cluny laces. Torchons, Maltese lace. All-overs and numerous others. -
4 Mechlin Lace
A trade term for a very fine Belgian pillow lace figured on a net or tulle foundation, also known as Maline. It is transparent, soft and made in all kinds of floral effects. The silk variety is used for dress and millinery purposes. Imitated in cotton and machine work for making-up into light summer dresses (see Mechlin Embroidery) -
5 Baby Lace
A name used to designate any narrow, dainty light lace, whether cotton or linen. It is used chiefly in the making of layettes and for trimming dainty dresses and under-garments for children. -
6 Braid Lace Work
Narrow laces made on the pillow in braid styles. They all have " runners " or threads that form straight lines along the length with various fancy stitches connecting these together. These braids are used in making guipure lace by connecting them together with brides; also much used as edgings, borders and ornament for dresses, children's garments, underwear, etc. The principal varieties are: - Cloth Braid - Resembles plain weave, has four pairs of straight lines with cross stitches joining them together. Cucumber Braid - Has two borders of four threads each connected with spaced stitches. Shadow Braid - The runners are crossed in diamond mesh. Hole Braid - Plain cloth stitch all through with small holes formed in the centre at intervals. Ladder Braid - There are two pairs of runners on one side, and one pair only on the other. Stitched together in ladder-like bars. Lattice Braid - Runners in five pairs, and stitched to form a lattice effect. Open Braid - Runners in two sets - at the sides, connected with spaced loops giving an open tape. -
7 Llama Lace
A lace formerly made in England using black worsted yarns and the pillow for making, in floral effects. -
8 bobbin
['bɒbɪn]nome bobina f.; (for lace-making) spola f.* * *['bobin](a (usually wooden) reel or spool for winding thread etc: There's no thread left on the bobbin.) bobina* * *bobbin /ˈbɒbɪn/n.2 (elettr.) bobina; rocchetto● bobbin lace, merletto al tombolo (o a fuselli).* * *['bɒbɪn]nome bobina f.; (for lace-making) spola f. -
9 bobbin
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10 Cusirino Silk
An Italian yarn used for lace making. It is composed of three grege threefold threads doubled together with hard twist. -
11 Nuns' Thread
A term distinguishing the fine, bleached flax thread made by nuns in Italy and Holland since the 16th century. It is now made largely at Paisley. Used for lace making. -
12 bobbin
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13 Heathcote, John
SUBJECT AREA: Textiles[br]b. 7 August 1783 Duffield, Derbyshire, Englandd. 18 January 1861 Tiverton, Devonshire, England[br]English inventor of the bobbin-net lace machine.[br]Heathcote was the son of a small farmer who became blind, obliging the family to move to Long Whatton, near Loughborough, c.1790. He was apprenticed to W.Shepherd, a hosiery-machine maker, and became a frame-smith in the hosiery industry. He moved to Nottingham where he entered the employment of an excellent machine maker named Elliott. He later joined William Caldwell of Hathern, whose daughter he had married. The lace-making apparatus they patented jointly in 1804 had already been anticipated, so Heathcote turned to the problem of making pillow lace, a cottage industry in which women made lace by arranging pins stuck in a pillow in the correct pattern and winding around them thread contained on thin bobbins. He began by analysing the complicated hand-woven lace into simple warp and weft threads and found he could dispense with half the bobbins. The first machine he developed and patented, in 1808, made narrow lace an inch or so wide, but the following year he made much broader lace on an improved version. In his second patent, in 1809, he could make a type of net curtain, Brussels lace, without patterns. His machine made bobbin-net by the use of thin brass discs, between which the thread was wound. As they passed through the warp threads, which were arranged vertically, the warp threads were moved to each side in turn, so as to twist the bobbin threads round the warp threads. The bobbins were in two rows to save space, and jogged on carriages in grooves along a bar running the length of the machine. As the strength of this fabric depended upon bringing the bobbin threads diagonally across, in addition to the forward movement, the machine had to provide for a sideways movement of each bobbin every time the lengthwise course was completed. A high standard of accuracy in manufacture was essential for success. Called the "Old Loughborough", it was acknowledged to be the most complicated machine so far produced. In partnership with a man named Charles Lacy, who supplied the necessary capital, a factory was established at Loughborough that proved highly successful; however, their fifty-five frames were destroyed by Luddites in 1816. Heathcote was awarded damages of £10,000 by the county of Nottingham on the condition it was spent locally, but to avoid further interference he decided to transfer not only his machines but his entire workforce elsewhere and refused the money. In a disused woollen factory at Tiverton in Devonshire, powered by the waters of the river Exe, he built 300 frames of greater width and speed. By continually making inventions and improvements until he retired in 1843, his business flourished and he amassed a large fortune. He patented one machine for silk cocoon-reeling and another for plaiting or braiding. In 1825 he brought out two patents for the mechanical ornamentation or figuring of lace. He acquired a sound knowledge of French prior to opening a steam-powered lace factory in France. The factory proved to be a successful venture that lasted many years. In 1832 he patented a monstrous steam plough that is reputed to have cost him over £12,000 and was claimed to be the best in its day. One of its stated aims was "improved methods of draining land", which he hoped would develop agriculture in Ireland. A cable was used to haul the implement across the land. From 1832 to 1859, Heathcote represented Tiverton in Parliament and, among other benefactions, he built a school for his adopted town.[br]Bibliography1804, with William Caldwell, British patent no. 2,788 (lace-making machine). 1808. British patent no. 3,151 (machine for making narrow lace).1809. British patent no. 3,216 (machine for making Brussels lace). 1813, British patent no. 3,673.1825, British patent no. 5,103 (mechanical ornamentation of lace). 1825, British patent no. 5,144 (mechanical ornamentation of lace).Further ReadingV.Felkin, 1867, History of the Machine-wrought Hosiery and Lace Manufacture, Nottingham (provides a full account of Heathcote's early life and his inventions).A.Barlow, 1878, The History and Principles of Weaving by Hand and by Power, London (provides more details of his later years).W.G.Allen, 1958 John Heathcote and His Heritage (biography).M.R.Lane, 1980, The Story of the Steam Plough Works, Fowlers of Leeds, London (for comments about Heathcote's steam plough).W.English, 1969, The Textile Industry, London, and C.Singer (ed.), 1958, A History ofTechnology, Vol. V, Oxford: Clarendon Press (both describe the lace-making machine).RLH -
14 Levers (Leavers), John
SUBJECT AREA: Textiles[br]fl. 1812–21 Englandd. after 1821 Rouen, France[br]English improver of lace-making machines that formed the basis for many later developments.[br]John Heathcote had shown that it was possible to make lace by machine with his patents of 1808 and 1809. His machines were developed and improved by John Levers. Levers was originally a hosiery frame-smith and setter-up at Sutton-in-Ashfield but moved to Nottingham, where he extended his operations to the construction of point-net and warp-lace machinery. In the years 1812 and 1813 he more or less isolated himself in the garret of a house in Derby Road, where he assembled his lacemaking machine by himself. He was helped by two brothers and a nephew who made parts, but they saw it only when it was completed. Financial help for making production machines came from the firm of John Stevenson \& Skipwith, lace manufacturers in Nottingham. Levers never sought a patent, as he was under the mistaken impression that additions or improvements to an existing patented machine could not be protected. An early example of the machine survives at the Castle Museum in Nottingham. Although his prospects must have seemed good, for some reason Levers dissolved his partnership with Stevenson \& Co. and continued to work on improving his machine. In 1817 he altered it from the horizontal to the upright position, building many of the machines each year. He was a friendly, kind-hearted man, but he seems to have been unable to apply himself to his business, preferring the company of musicians—he was a bandmaster of the local militia—and was soon frequently without money, even to buy food for his family. He emigrated in 1821 to Rouen, France, where he set up his lace machines and where he subsequently died; when or in what circumstances is unknown. His machine continued to be improved and was adapted to work with the Jacquard mechanism to select the pattern.[br]Further ReadingW.Felkin, 1967, History of the Machine-wrought Hosiery and Lace Manufactures, reprint, Newton Abbot (orig. pub. 1867) (the main account of the Levers machine).W.English, 1969, The Textile Industry, London (a brief account of the Levers lace machine).D.M.Smith, 1965, Industrial Archaeology of the East Midlands, Dawlish (includes an illustration of Levers's machine).RLH -
15 Deverill, Hooton
SUBJECT AREA: Textiles[br]fl. c.1835 England[br]English patentee of the first successful adaptation of the Jacquard machine for patterned lacemaking.[br]After John Levers had brought out his lacemaking machine in 1813, other lacemakers proceeded to elaborate their machinery so as to imitate the more complicated forms of handwork. One of these was Samuel Draper of Nottingham, who took out one patent in 1835 for the use of a Jacquard mechanism on a lace making machine, followed by another in 1837. However, material made on his machine cost more than the handmade article, so the experiment was abandoned after three years. Then, in Nottingham in 1841, Hooton Deverill patented the first truly successful application of the Jacquard to lacemaking. The Jacquard needles caused the warp threads to be pushed sideways to form the holes in the lace while the bobbins were moved around them to bind them together. This made it possible to reproduce most of the traditional patterns of handmade lace in both narrow and wide pieces. Lace made on these machines became cheap enough for most people to be able to hang it in their windows as curtains, or to use it for trimming clothing. However, it raised in a most serious form the problem of patent rights between the two patentees, Deverill and Draper, threatening much litigation. Deverill's patent was bought by Richard Birkin, who with his partner Biddle relinquished the patent rights. The lacemaking trade on these machines was thus thrown open to the public and a new development of the trade took place. Levers lace is still made in the way described here.[br]Bibliography1841, British patent no. 8,955 (adaptation of Jacquard machine for patterned lacemaking).Further ReadingW.Felkin, 1867, History of Machine-Wrought Hosiery and Lace Manufacture (provides an account of Deverill's patent).C.Singer (ed.), 1958, A History of'Technology, Vol. V, Oxford: Clarendon Press (a modern account).T.K.Derry and T.I.Williams, 1960, A Short History of Technology from the EarliestTimes to AD 1900, Oxford.RLH -
16 Dressed Pillow
A lace-making term for the pillow with all appliances ready for work. These are: the pillow, flat for Honiton; round for Brussels; and long for Saxony. Three pillow covers, a hank of lace thread, a hank of gimp (shiny thread), four dozen pairs of bobbins, lace pins, common pins, small soft pin cushion, darning needle with sealing wax head, fine crochet hook, bobbin-bag, a pair of scissors and a parchment pattern. -
17 Hosiery Yarns
(See knitting). All yarns used for knitting are termed hosiery yarns in Leicester, but in America only yarns actually used for knitted footwear come under this term. These yarns are much softer than required for weaving. Miscellaneous Yarns - Goat wools, such as llama and alpaca are employed in spinning. yarns for the knitting trade. Vicuna and camel yarns are used to a limited extent. Ramie yarn is specially employed for knitting gas mantle fabrics. Soft spun flax yams have been used for making underwear fabric. Chenille and other manufactured threads are used to a small extent in warp knitting. Composite yarns, such as union yarns - spun from a mixture of wool and cotton fibres; cordon yarns - cotton and worsted singles, doubled together; wool and rayon or spun silk, cotton and rayon or spun silk are largely used to produce self or two-colour effects. Fancy yarns, such as slub yams, voiles, and curled and loop yarns are also employed. Hosiery Yarns (Cotton) include condenser, hosiery, condenser lisle thread, mercerised and sewing cottons. Condenser yarns are spun in coarse counts from low-grade cotton, Indian and American. They are carded, condensed and mule spun, and possess little twist. Hosiery cotton yarns vary considerably in counts and qualities, practically all varieties of Indian, American and Egyptian being used in varying proportions to obtain suitable mixture for quality and price. Cheaper yarns are carded and mule spun. American and Egyptian cotton yarns are combed mainly with the object of removing seed particles. High-class Egyptian and Sea Islands cotton yarns are super-combed. The chief features of a hosiery cotton yam should be: (1) Regularity; (2) cleanliness; (3) fullness. Regularity prevents the making of cloudy fabric, showing thick and thin places. Cleanliness is essential, as the seed particles clog the eyelet hole in the yam guides and cause breakages. Fullness is desirable to cover the loop interstices. Elasticity and pliability are quite as essential as tensile strength. Yams are usually soft spun and if two-fold soft doubled, average twists in two-fold being 2/10's 61/2T., 2/20's 81/2T., 2/30's 10T., 2/40's 16T., 2/80's 20T. Softer twist less 25 to 30 per cent of average (T= turns per inch). Lisle thread is a comparatively hard-twisted and doubly-gassed thread in which there are no projecting fibres. It is always of a two-fold character, and the doubling twist varies from 24 to 34 turns per inch in 2/60's. It is used largely in the manufacture of ladies' hose tops and feet and for lace hosiery. Mercerised yams are used largely in the fancy trade, a comparatively soft twist again being employed. Sewing cottons for seaming, linking and making-up are specially prepared in two to six cord open and reverse twist. Woollen and Worsted Yarns include lamb's wool, wheeling, skein yarns, gala yams (woollens), worsted, crossbreds, fingering, cashmere, dry spun botany (see under each name). Worsted and crossbred yarns of various qualities are used. These yams are spun softly with " hosiery twist." The drawing may be open, cone or French, and the spinning may take place on cap, ring or flyer frames. The chief essentials of hosiery yarn are softness of fibre, fullness, minimum of twist consistent with the requisite tensile strength, regularity, pliability and elasticity. Cashmere Yarns, as used in the knitted goods industry, are spun from short, loose and weak wools as well as from better qualities by French drawing and mule spinning. A small proportion of real cashmere is used for outer garments. In recent years nylon yarns have been largely employed. -
18 Rolling
FLAX BREAKING, or ROLLINGThe operation of passing flax straw either endways or sideways through a series of fluted rollers to crimp or break the woody part of the straw preparatory to scutching. Rollers, Annsborough - A special form of pre-breaker consisting of 4-6 pairs of fluted rollers through which straw is fed diagonally to break the centre portion prior to entry to a turbine scutcher. Rollers, Crimper - A special form of roller designed to put a very fine crimp into the straw and to break up the woody part into very small pieces. Rollers, Dodd-Gillespie - A special form of breaker consisting of 36 or more pairs of graduated fluted rollers designed to give an intense breaking of the woody part of the straw prior to scutching on a Monoblade machine, or in preparation for hackling without scutching. Rolling - See Breaking or rolling. ———————— In lace making a knot or twist that fastens the thread to the bobbins used in pillow lace. -
19 Point Ground
A term in most lace-making towns in England for a net ground for bobbin lace. -
20 Cloth Braid
A narrow lace used for trimmings and lace making (see Braid Laces)
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